Italy's Most Famous Coastal Drive

The Amalfi Coast road (SS163) is simultaneously one of the world's most beautiful and most stressful drives. Clinging to cliffs above the Tyrrhenian Sea, the narrow road winds through tunnels carved in rock, past lemon groves and candy-colored villages, with sheer drops to the Mediterranean below. It's breathtaking โ€” literally. Here's how to do it right.

Getting Your Rental Car

Pick up your car at Naples Airport (NAP) or Naples Centrale train station. Avoid picking up in Sorrento or on the coast itself โ€” limited selection and higher prices. From Naples, drive south on the A3 motorway to Sorrento (about 75 minutes), which serves as the best base for Amalfi Coast exploration.

Choose a compact car โ€” the smaller the better. The SS163 is narrow, and in many sections two buses cannot pass simultaneously. Anything wider than a compact hatchback will make the drive significantly more stressful. A Fiat 500 or similar is ideal.

The Route: Sorrento to Salerno

Sorrento to Positano (16 km, 40 minutes)

The drive begins gently as you leave Sorrento and climb over the headland through the village of Sant'Agata sui Due Golfi. Then the road drops dramatically to the coast and the famous hairpin bends begin. Your first glimpse of Positano โ€” a cascade of pastel houses tumbling down the cliff to the sea โ€” is one of those travel moments you'll never forget.

Parking in Positano is extremely limited and expensive (โ‚ฌ6โ€“8/hour). If you want to explore, use the paid parking on the upper road and walk down (steep stairs). Alternatively, drive through and admire from above โ€” there are several viewpoints with pull-offs.

Positano to Amalfi (18 km, 35 minutes)

This is the most dramatic section of the drive. The road passes through Praiano (quieter alternative to Positano, excellent for lunch), hugs the cliff face through a series of tunnels, and crosses the Fjord of Furore โ€” a narrow inlet where the road bridges a dramatic gorge. Amalfi town has the best parking options on the coast (a large paid garage on the waterfront) and is the most practical place to stop and explore.

Amalfi to Ravello Detour (7 km, 20 minutes)

From Amalfi, take the narrow road up to Ravello, perched 350 meters above the sea. This hillside town is famous for its two grand villas โ€” Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone โ€” both with gardens that offer some of the Mediterranean's most stunning panoramic views. Ravello is quieter and more refined than the coastal towns below.

Amalfi to Salerno (25 km, 40 minutes)

East of Amalfi, the road continues through Minori and Maiori (larger beaches, more local feel) before becoming less dramatic as it approaches Vietri sul Mare, famous for its ceramics. From here, it's a short drive into Salerno, where you can drop off the car if doing a one-way rental or continue your journey.

Book Your Amalfi Coast Car

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Essential Driving Tips

Drive early. The road is busiest between 10 AM and 4 PM. Starting at 7โ€“8 AM gives you the road nearly to yourself and the best light for photographs.

Drive west to east (Sorrento to Salerno). This keeps you on the sea side of the road with the best views and puts you on the outer lane at curves, giving you more visibility. Driving east to west means you're on the cliff-wall side, hugging the mountain with less visibility.

Use your horn at blind corners. This is not considered aggressive in Italy โ€” it's expected. A short honk before entering a blind bend alerts oncoming traffic. Locals do it constantly.

Watch for buses. SITA buses run the SS163 regularly and take up most of the road. When you see one coming, pull over to the widest point available and let it pass. Do not try to squeeze by.

Beware of ZTL zones. Many Amalfi Coast towns have Zona Traffico Limitato (limited traffic zones) that prohibit non-resident vehicles. Driving into a ZTL triggers an automatic camera fine of โ‚ฌ80โ€“100+. Check ZTL signage carefully and ask your hotel about parking access before driving into any town center.

SITA bus timetables and route maps are available at SITA Sud Trasporti โ€” useful for understanding bus schedules on the SS163.